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How many chickens do I need?

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I have been writing about starting out with chickens and writing on a flock of at least 20 or more.  I was just thinking that many may not know how many chickens that they really need.  I live on a farm and raise 50 or more chickens at a time.  I sell my extra eggs to friends and family around me.  So having enough farm fresh eggs for those customers is important to me.

How many laying hens do I need?

First off, if you are just wanting eggs for your household, remember a hen will lay one egg per day, depending on the breed ( to 250 eggs per year).  A breed like Rhode Island Reds or leg horns average out to about 0.68 eggs per day (250 eggs divided by 365 days).  They will take time off if the weather is very uncomfortable for them.  They will take time off when they molt, which means they shed feathers and grow new ones.  They will take time off when they are sick or stressed.

Right now here in Canada, I have a few sick chickens as the weather is so unstable.  We have cold weather temperatures of -10 to -20 deg Celcius for a couple of days then it’s like spring with temperatures in double digits of +6 to +15 degrees Celcius.  Those weird weather changes that are so drastic causes stress in the birds and also causes sickness.  

Some of my poor hens are molting in this awful weather.  Can you imagine being half naked and trying to grow new feathers in -20 deg Celcius?  NASTY!  I almost want to knit or crochet sweaters, booties and touques for these poor girls!  Can you imagine that?  My husband would wonder what happen to my brain!  

So out of 45 hens I am only getting about 3 to 4 eggs per day lately due to molting and crazy weather changes.  This is not a normal year for me.  I have never had such a deduction in egg production. I like to have at least 20 dozen per week for my customers and my family which means I need at least 34 eggs per day (if they laid every day).  So to make sure I have at least 34 eggs daily, and making sure I take molting, crazy weather, sickness, or another reason they don’t lay eggs, I will need at least 50 hens to keep me and my customers happy.

Lets say you only want to get one dozen eggs per week.  You take 12 divide it by 7 you will get an approximate egg production of 1.7 eggs per day.  So lets say, 2 eggs per day, average.  You would need at least 3 hens to make that average.  Yes, you may get 3 eggs per day for a while, but when they take their molting break, get sick, or have drastic weather changes, your egg production will slow and you may not get any eggs for a while.  Plus, chickens are flock animals.  They are truly happy when they have company of other birds.  With extra eggs, you could give them away or sell them and make a few dollars to put towards feed.

What if I want meat chickens?

Laying hens are daily chores of raising and looking after for many years.  Meat chickens are only a short time of raising before you butcher them.  Usually 5-12 weeks depending on how big you want them to weigh when you butcher.  My dad loves BIG HEAVY CHICKENS and when they raise them at butcher time these birds are the size of small turkeys!  I need a HUGE crockpot or roaster to cook these 6-8 lb monsters.  I prefer a smaller bird like 3 to 5 lbs.

If you want meat chickens and want to know how many to raise, then you will need to figure out how many whole chickens you can fit in your freezer at one time as you won’t be eating them all at once.  I love fresh farm raised chicken and would love to have at least 45 chickens in my freezer so we could have chicken at least once a week. I just don’t have the freezer space or room for another freezer!

Always check your provincial or state laws to make sure you follow any laws to livestock within any area, rural or urban.  Like in a recent post, not all urban areas are allowed to have chickens within their limits.  If you don’t want to go commercial, there are limits of how many numbers of poultry you can legally raise without having a commercial license.

It is very important to calculate how many chickens of what type you are wanting for your needs.  If you are wanting to sell eggs, you will want enough to supply your soon to be customers.  It can be expensive if you have to purchase bagged feed for a lot of chickens if you don’t have enough eggs for your demanding customers!  Eggs are easy to sell as farm fresh eggs are so tasty, especially if your chickens are allowed to free range for part of the day.

The more chickens you have the more work you will have.  More eggs to pick, wash and carton, more space to clean dirty bedding, more feed to dish out and more water to haul.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s not hard work…except hauling out dirty bedding and finding a place to keep it while it composts down for garden fertilizer.  It really is worth it in the end!

How many chickens do you have?  What is your favorite reason for having chickens?  Leave me a comment below, I would love to hear from you!!!

Categories: Uncategorized

After the chicks come home.

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Now that you decided to either have someone hatch eggs for you, hatch your own eggs, or order from a hatchery, you will need to have a few things ready so your chicks will have the very best start in life.  It doesn’t matter the type of chicken (layer or meat), all chicks should be raised in the same way…unless you have a hen raising the chicks for you….but that’s another story that I will touch on in another blog.  Today I want to focus on raising baby chickens from scratch without a hen.

These were my Barred Rock/Rhode Island Red cross chicks from 2016.














Tips for Raising Baby Chicks – week by week

Raising baby chicks yourself is fun and rewarding.  It really is fun to watch them grow.  Here are a few tips on how and what to do to start going chicken before you get your little baby chickens.


1. You want to make sure you have a clean building that is draught proof, predator proof, warm and large enough to raise these babies until they are feathered and able to go outside.  Having your building or area with no cold spots or windy spots is very crucial to your baby chicks’ survival.  Cold and babies do not go well together.


2. I always board off the corners with at least an 18” piece of plywood so that the corners are less a corner.  Corners can cause suffocation and squashing of chicks by other chicks if they are too warm, too cold or stressed.  Fill the corners with straw, crumpled newspaper, anything so if a chick does try to make the great escape, it can’t get trapped in the corner away from heat, food, water, or your eyes.


Frighten chicks squishing into a corner


3. Block off an area for your day old baby chicks that allows 6” square or 0.5 sq. ft. for each chick.  For example:  For 20 chicks you would need 10 sq. ft. area when you first get your day old chicks to 6 weeks old.


· One day old chicks to 6 week old chicks require a half a square foot per chick.


· 6 week to 10 week old chicks require three quarters of a square foot per chick.


· 10 week old and older chicks/chickens require 1 square foot per chicken.


4. You want to take some serious thought of heating your area for your chicks.  Having heat in your building means you really need to be sure that it is safe from starting a fire.  Paper, shavings, straw, or any bedding material is flammable and can cause a fire if knocked over or falls and touches the bedding.  Please be very safe for your sake and your baby chickens!



Some use heat lamp shields and heat lamps.  Heat lamps are suspended above the floor.    You will want to hang enough heat lamps with bulbs about 12” off the floor for your youngest chicks at the beginning and raise as they grow.  If you go this route, make sure the bulb is a 250 degree Fahrenheit RED bulb.  


Why a RED bulb?  This allows the baby chicks to sleep compared to the bright white bulbs.  It also helps to mask any wounds or bleeding that could cause other chickens to peck at these wounds.  Chickens are cannibalistic and will eventually peck a wounded flock mate to death.  Always separate the injured bird from the flock to keep the rest of the flock from killing it.


Happy chicks sleeping under a red bulb heat lamp. Notice they are spread out and sleepy! Very Content!


Some use a heater that puts out heat a different heat (like radiant).  These heaters need to be attached somehow to the building to avoid the chicks from touching it and getting burnt or avoiding the heater from tipping over onto the bedding.


If you have gone the incubator route, your chicks must be dried off before moved from the incubator to their raising area.  Whichever way you decide to heat your raising area, make sure you have a two or more thermometers in your building to keep an eye on the temperature and can adjust accordingly.  Having not enough heat or too much heat can kill your chick(s) by chilling them too much or dehydration from being too hot.


Please note, if the temperature outside the building is very warm or very cold, you must adjust the inside temperature of the building as well to keep the temperature consistent to the above temperatures as per age of the chicks.


· Your day old chicks to 1 week old chicks need a consistent temperature of 95 degree Fahrenheit or 35 degree Celsius.


· Drop the temperature 5 degree Fahrenheit or 15 degree Celsius every week after week one to week 6.


· Once your chicks are 6 weeks old they should be at a temperature of 70 degree Fahrenheit or 21 degree Celsius and can stay there until they are fully feathered.



5. Now that you have the building ready with corners blocked off and proper heat, you want to have bedding.  Bedding keeps the chicks warm and cozy and absorbs wetness.  Any bedding you choose must be changed out regularly or when very dirty or damp to keep your chicks healthy and give them the best start you can.  Here are some choices and the good and the bad.



· Straw or Hay: I personally use straw as it is what I have on hand as I live on 160 acres and have straw readily available to me.  Straw can become compacted quickly.   Hay, I find is very coarse but the chickens like to pick at the alfalfa and get more nutrition out of it until it is soiled.


· Newspaper or paper:  I don’t recommend newspaper, as it is slippery and can cause injury to your chicks.   If you shred the paper it is better, but can compact down easily like straw or hay.  Shredded paper is great in chicken nests if you have it readily available to you!


· Wood Shavings: With shavings, the chicks may eat some of them and cause them to get stuck in their throats. You can safely introduce shavings after chicks are 6 weeks old.  Shavings are very absorbent and can cause high humidity if not changed out regularly.  Be careful what the shavings are made of.  Hard wood shavings have fungi and moulds that causes bacteria that is harmful to poultry.  Dust free shavings is a way better shaving.


· Hemp:  Very similar to wood shavings or chips.  Very absorbent, absorbs odors better, dust free, fly repellent, and birds do not find it edible.


I’m sure there are more bedding options available.  Please comment below if you use something other than the 4 I have listed above.  I would love to hear about your experiences of what works for you or doesn’t and why!



6. Feed and water.  Another important part of the chick raising process!  They need to eat and have water to grow up healthy and strong!  


· What do you feed them?  Some feed only chick starter for the first 6 weeks.  Here’s my thoughts, what does a hen with chicks feed her babies?  They eat what she eats, right?  The hen will gladly eat the higher protein chick starter if it is available….yummy!


Some say that chicks are not to eat a layer feed due to the higher calcium in the feed.  Higher calcium in chicks may cause problems in the kidneys as their bodies cannot deal with the calcium levels.   


In my experience, I have had no troubles with home hatched chicks or roosters eating layer feed if raised in with the hens.  Even if the bits are too big for the chicks, they will peck at it.


I personally dislike having to buy three different feeds for my birds, (chick starter, poultry grower, and layer feed) especially when they are all raised in the same pen.   I do keep my baby chicks that I order from the hatchery in a separate area until they are able to be moved outside at 12 – 15 weeks.  I also feed them chick starter until 6 weeks of age.


In the end, the choice is up to you!  Just make sure the feed is not mouldy and is easily accessible to the size of the chicken!  You may want to sprinkle feed around the food trays for day old chicks so they can easily find the food in the trays.  I’ve never had to do that but if you find they aren’t finding the food, it will help.


· If you have your chicks vaccinated for Marek’s or Coccidiosis, you do not need to feed a medicated chick starter feed.  Here in Alberta, Canada, medicated feed is no longer available.  It is now treated with essential oils for unvaccinated birds.  After 6 weeks of chick starter feed, you can slowly transition them to a 16% poultry grower or homemade chop.


· Always have fresh water available to your chicks.  For the first 6 weeks, I add a vitamin booster to the water.  I also add the vitamin booster when I feel they need the boost no matter the age of the flock.  


When I was a kid, my parents used to purchase vitamin tablets that were added to the water.  Now it is only in powdered form in my area.  The tablets were so much easier to use.  2 tablets to 4 L of water.  


Now the pouch of powder is a bit tricky as you have to be a math whiz to figure out how much powder to put into a small container of water.    Instructions are for 180 L of water, thank goodness my hubby is a math whiz!

















That’s it to prepare for your babies.  You need a draught weather free building, a safe space, heat, bedding, water, and feed.  Pretty easy really.  It is so much fun and rewarding to watch these little balls of fluff running and bouncing around growing up into a full feathered bird.






Categories: Uncategorized

What Stage of the Chicken do You Start With?


How do you even start going chicken? There are many different ways to get started. First make sure where you plan on keeping your chickens that you are able to keep them there.   Most urban and subdivisions have bylaws if they allow you to have chickens within their boundaries.  Here in Canada, it is just starting for urban areas like towns or cities to consider to allow their citizens to raise a very small of hens in backyards.  Also make sure you follow your province or state rules as well.  Here in Alberta, Canada, you do not need a quota to raise 300 laying chickens or less or 2000 or less meat birds.  That means you are not considered a commercial operation.  Once you have done your research on the breed and reason you want chickens (laying or meat), you find a supplier for your chickens.


You may want to start out with grown chickens, pullets (female birds not yet ready to lay but soon) or baby chicks.



You may even want to purchase, rent, or borrow an incubator and hatch your own eggs. That would mean purchasing hatching eggs.




To Incubate or not to Incubate

Hatching chicken eggs at home does have some rewards, some heartbreak and disappointment. An incubator needs to be watched carefully for humidity, heat, and rolling the eggs to properly hatch eggs. If any or all of these things are not correct, it could cause your hatching rates to be very low.

Hatching your own eggs does not give you any idea how many females or males you may hatch out. You may be disappointed that twenty per cent (20% +) or more of your eggs turn out to hatch baby roosters. But that is the fun of hatching!


Hatching your own eggs does take time, patience and supervision. It takes 21 days for a chick to hatch from the time they are placed into the incubator. It is fun though to watch and anticipate the hatching of your eggs to see these little birds emerge from their safety of the shell.


I used Silkie bantams to hatch out a small handful of chicken eggs this summer. I like the hen hatching the eggs as I don’t have to worry about temperature, humidity or rolling the eggs….the

hen does all the work for me. The down side is that I can only put 3 to 6 eggs under a small Silkie hen to brood.  I also have to match your incubating time with the chicken’s brooding time.


Where do you get hatching eggs? Same places as you would for finding baby chicks, pullets and layers. Keep on reading!








Where do I look to find what I want?

There are many opportunities to purchase hatching eggs, live baby chicks, pullet chickens or layers. You can search Facebook groups that offer baby chicks for sale, newspapers, online websites, trade shows, hatchery, local chicken sales, or breeders in your area.

This is a Facebook post for Alberta Chickens and chicks for sale. Check your Facebook for groups or pages in your area!


Any of these are a great way to get certain breeds of chickens; common, heritage, mixed or rare chicken breeds. I do advise that you do research on any breeder. You want your chickens to be as healthy as possible to have a great start at life.

You can take your chances on where you get your chicks or hatching eggs, though it can lead to money loss and disappointment, meaning some of the chicks may be diseased and/or weak or the hatching egg rate very low.


My flock of laying chicks have come from a hatchery in Alberta, Canada. I order them early in the year (to ensure I get what breed I want) to be delivered by mail or to a local store (I have to pick up when they arrive) when I want them. I usually like to receive my chicks in late April to mid May. This time of year is usually warmer and it’s easier to keep a consistent temperature in the building where they will be raised.


Keep ‘em Warm!


If you have decided to go to the incubating hatching chicken eggs or already hatched baby chicks, you must keep them warm! “Even the hatching eggs?” you ask? Yes! You don’t have to keep them as warm as live baby chicks but you must keep them from freezing.


Refrigerator storing temperatures are too cold for hatching eggs. If your hatching eggs get too cold or are frozen before getting them home into your incubator, you may find your hatching rate very, very low or none at all! They should be kept at room temperature until they go into the incubator.


Hatching eggs should not be any older than 2 or 3 weeks. The fresher the egg; the better the hatch rate you will have. You can still hatch out eggs after 3 weeks, but the hatch rate will become lower the older the eggs are.


Baby chicks need to be kept warm as well. Make sure you have a solid box with breathing holes in it and not expose them to any cold for longer than moving from a warm building to your vehicle and then to their building or area they will be raised in. Baby chicks do not do well in cold or drafts.

This is a commercial hatchery shipment of chicks. They would be shipped in a heated truck.



Older laying birds – Are they worth it?


Starting out with pullets or hens, makes life easier as the chickens have already gone through the chick phase and extra heat is not needed. They will already be on grower or layer (depending on their age). They will be feathered out and will soon lay or are already laying eggs for you. Put them in your coop and let them do their thing.



What is a pullet? Is there a difference between a pullet and a hen? Yes! A pullet is a fully feathered chick that is not yet laying eggs but is fully grown. A pullet becomes a hen at around the age 6 months (depending on the breed) when it starts to lay eggs.


Getting pullets means you may have to wait a bit to get eggs, but you know they are young and able to lay eggs very soon. Continue to feed them poultry grower until they start laying eggs.


Older hens have done most of their egg laying in their first three years. If they are older than 4 years, the amount of eggs they lay may be very sparse or none at all, depending on their age.







Now to Get Busy!


You now have some ideas on where to find what you are looking for and at what stage you are willing to start at.
Incubation is not for everyone, that’s why there are the options of live chicks of all ages up to a hen. The decision is yours and what you have time and money for.


I have not used an incubator yet but plan on using one just to see if I can hatch out my own eggs instead of using a brooding hen. I think my children would love to watch the hatching if they can keep patient enough for the wait!


I would love to hear your stories of how you got your chickens?



Do you prefer to hatch, get live chicks or older chickens?


Happy Shopping!

My Chicken Coop Start

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Choosing a chicken coop can depend on many things and how much money you have to spend. Some people want to go new and some want to repurpose things. Some people are handy and some are not.


Making a homemade chicken coop, or have someone build it for you can be expensive and daunting.


I am a huge fan of reusing or repurposing things. Needing a chicken coop, this building was just what I needed. Look for people selling or giving away old granaries, sheds, play houses, old lumber, pallets, etc.



Repurposing or Reusing– Use your imagination

A little elbow grease and know how, a chicken coop doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive. If you want a homemade chicken coop, old lumber or pallets are a great way to go.


Reusing granaries, shed, play houses or anything similar doesn’t require any building skills, though you may have to do some renovations to benefit the chickens and yourself.

My chicken coop is an old granary building. My husband had purchased a couple of small buildings at an auction and this one was adapted to store oats for our meat goats.


When we quit using oats to flush our goats and supplement their feed, the building was just standing there with no use.


I started to think that maybe having a few chickens for fresh eggs would be a great use for the old empty building.


If you do decide to go new, I’m not judging.  Finding chicken coop plans online is easy and if you can afford to go fancy, go nuts!  There are so many cute little coops for all numbers and sizes of chickens.  The choices are limitless.  Chickens just need a basic one room building.  The main purpose is to keep them dry, safe, warm, and healthy.




Inside the Coop – Making it cozy

I had lined the inside of the 8×12 building with OSB for grain storage, so I was happy the walls were double sheeted, though not insulated, it would do. Insulation for the extreme cold weather and even in warm weather would be beneficial, but beggars can’t be choosers at this point.


It already had high vent windows with doors for checking grain levels. I covered the inside of those windows with hardware cloth to keep out cats, owls, hawks and birds in general. They were perfect for ventilation and air circulation. These vent windows are a must in a coop to keep your flock healthy, especially in winter.


I cut another door into the one end of the building for cleaning purposes. I didn’t want to throw the old bedding out into the chicken run. Instead I throw it out of the house to the outside, and if need be, it can be hauled away or left to compost. This side door also serves as an exit and entrance for my chickens to free range outside of their fenced chicken run.


Since I don’t have any windows in my coop, I cut the main door and the side cleaning door in half. I can keep the top halves open for extra air circulation. The side door being cut in half allows me to open the bottom half only to let the chickens free range out and keeps birds from flying in the coop.


The main door has a small chicken opening with door cut out of the bottom half. This way they can still be in and out of the coop in the winter but keep the heat in as much as possible. The door allows me to close the opening if I need to enclose the chickens into the coop for any reason.


The floor of the coop is standard plywood. I lay straw on the floor of the coop to give them something to scratch in and to keep the floor warm for them. Even in the summer it makes cleaning much easier if you put straw or shavings on the floor. I prefer straw as shavings are harder to clean out with a fork and they can absorb a lot of water.




Windows for the Coop – Do they need windows?

Windows are another great addition to making a coop cozy. It helps to bring natural light into the coop for the chickens and can add air circulation if they open.


Having windows can help heat up the coop in winter as well. When the weather is very warm, just open the window and let the breeze flow through.


I do not have any windows in my current coop. I want to put windows in, but am trying to convince my hubby to build a new insulated coop. I have old recycled windows set aside, that I found at a garage sale, I will hinge them to open to the outside. I will have hardware cloth fastened on the inside of the coop, as well, for safety.


Chickens don’t care if there are curtains on their windows. You can place curtains on your windows just for esthetics; they will only get dusty and dirty. Chickens create a lot of dust and it clings to the coop in the rafters and along windows.




Nesting Boxes and Roosts – Chicken Comfort

Chickens like a nice roomy nesting box that is private and comfortable for their size. For a standard chicken, a nest size at 10.5” length x 12” width x 12” tall (if enclosed) is a good start. Larger birds need bigger nests and vise versa for the smaller chickens.


For a nest, you can re-use milk crates, pails, or plastic flower pots that are large enough for nests. You can build out of wood or purchase pre-built nesting boxes as well. This keeps the chickens from laying eggs on the floor of the coop.


Raise your nests off the floor 12”-18”. You may need to build a little ladder put on a slight angle for your chickens to use to get into the nest if the nests are mounted too high off the floor.


You don’t want your chickens laying eggs on the floor. If an egg gets broken, it will be a frenzy in the coop. Chickens love to eat eggs. Keeping eggs from being broken and eaten is important to keep your chickens from starting to get a taste of eggs. Nesting boxes keeps the eggs cleaner as well.


Chickens need a nice place to sleep at night. They like to roost on branches or wood lumber roosts. You want at least one foot of space per chicken. I like to have removable roosts to be able to clean the coop without banging any part of my body on a roost.


I made holders out of scrap wood that the roost boards fit in so that they can come off the sides of each wall by lifting them out of the holders. It also makes cleaning the roosts much easier when they are removable.


I have seen coops with actual tree branches for roosts. Just make sure they are large enough in diameter to handle the weight of several chickens per branch that may roost on them. You want them big enough in diameter so they have space to roost properly without falling off.

I use a 2×2 lumber that I cut to fit across the 7’ width of the building. I have my roosts on an angle, meaning not a flat surface at the top. Many will say the roosts should have a flat top surface for the chickens to roost. I do not find my chickens care.


Roosts should start 12” off the ground and be spaced 15” apart and another 12” staggered width so they are rising like stairs. This keeps the chickens from pooping on each other.


The chickens in the highest pecking order of the flock will be roosting on the highest roost.




Chickens will be Happy! – They poop on everything

No matter if you spend hundreds of dollars on a prime cute little coop that looks just like your house, or if you have a coop pieced together with pallets, or out of an old shed, your chickens will be happy. If they have enough space and all the essentials they need to stay healthy and lay eggs, you have done your job.


Chickens don’t like to be wet or cold. They need shelter to keep them safe, happy and healthy. They will not judge you on what their home looks like as long as it does what it is supposed to.


Paint or no paint is up to you. Your coop will last longer if you do paint inside and out. It won’t matter to the chickens…they poop on everything!


Please feel free to tell me your Chicken Coop set up inside and out!  I would love to hear about it and maybe it will give others more ideas for their start of Going Chicken!

Going Chicken.

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When deciding to raise chickens, there are a few things to consider before you just go out and get chickens.


You need to decide type of chicken, breed of chicken, how big of a coop, whether you need fencing or free ranging, nesting boxes, and feed.











TYPE OF CHICKEN – Your reason for raising chickens


Do you want chickens that lay eggs? If so, do you want small, med, or large eggs?


Eggs come in different colors due to the breed of the hen. Colors include white, cream, brown, dark brown, blue, pink, green, and speckled.




Did you want to raise chickens for meat? You will need a dual-purpose chicken or a meat chicken.


The dual-purpose chicken lays eggs and can also be used for meat, though some dual-purpose birds become tough after 6 months of age if not butchered before then.

This is my dad, Joe, cleaning chickens for the freezer

A meat chicken grows large with 6 to 8 weeks of age. Most people butcher meat chickens at 8 to 12 weeks of age. Going meat chicken means you only raise chickens for a short time each year.



Now that you decided what type of chicken you want, are you raising them for just eggs and/or meat, just for show or do you want to sell hatching eggs or live chicks for sale?


How much space do I need for chickens?


Before you get your chickens, you have to decide how much space they will have to either be cooped up, in a run, free-range or in a chicken tractor where you can move them around.


Choosing how much area your chickens will occupy will determine your flock size. A smaller breed means more chickens in a smaller space.


Small breeds each bird needs at least 2 square feet inside a coop and 5 sq ft outside.


Standard sized chickens each bird needs 2 to 3 sq ft inside the coop and at least 10 sq ft outside.


Large breeds each require 3 to 4 sq ft per bird inside the coop and at least 15 sq ft outside the coop.


Giving your chickens lots of space is better for their health, less stress, less disease, and fighting.


BREEDS OF CHICKEN – choosing the right breed


There are hundreds of breeds of chickens. From small sized chickens, usually called Bantam, the standard sized chicken and then up to large heavier breeds.


Bantam chickens weigh 1 to 2 pounds. Bantam breeds can be miniature sized chickens of any standard breed. Some bantam breeds do not get a larger counterpart, one example is the Silkie breed.


Bantam chicken eggs are smaller than from a standard or large chicken. Smaller chicken means more chickens per square foot, less to feed and less manure.


Standard chickens weigh in at 4 to 7 pounds. Eggs vary from medium to large eggs.


Large breeds of chickens weigh in at 10 to 12 pounds. More laying birds means more eggs. One hen will lay up to one egg every 25 hours.


Some breeds can lay up to 300 or more eggs per year. Chickens start laying at approximately 6 months of age. Their best laying is in the first year.


As a hen ages their egg production does slow down gradually. Chickens can live up to 8 to 10 years or more.


They will take a break from laying to molt in late summer to early fall starting at about 18 months of age. Molting takes a lot out of the chicken and all of their energy goes into producing new feathers.


You only need roosters if you are wanting to raise chicks from your hens.  Your hens will lay eggs if they have a rooster or not in with them.


COOPS AND CHICKEN RUNS – what you need


In your coop you want it big enough for the size of flock you plan on having. Remember the bigger the chicken the more square footage it needs.


If you live where temperatures can get way below zero, you will want to consider an insulated coop. This helps to shelter the chickens against the freezing cold better.


You can build your own coop or reuse an old granary, shed, playhouse, or shelter for a chicken coop. A coop with windows makes for a coop with natural light. You want to have air flow in all seasons.


Having some ventilation helps to cool the coop off in hot weather and in cold weather you want to make sure the condensation from the chickens breathing can be expelled out of the coop. Sickness in cold winter months can be caused by not enough moisture escaping the inside of the coop.


In your coop you want to make sure you have roosts for your chickens to sit and sleep on. I recommend making them removable for easier cleaning of the coop.

Also in your coop, you will want nesting boxes or something similar for chickens to lay eggs in. One nest per 4 to 6 hens is average.

This is a 6 nest egg roll away nesting box. I personally make these in different sizes, different # of nests, and inside and outside the coop models, and regular nesting boxes where the eggs stay where laid.

As for the chicken run, again make sure it is large enough for the number of chickens in your flock. A good fence made of sturdy strong wire helps to keep predators out.



CHICKEN Feed – What do chickens eat?


Chickens eat a lot of different things. They love to scratch and peck the dirt for insects, worms, seeds, grass, grains, frogs, and many other things.


You can buy bagged feed already mixed or you can mix your own by purchasing grains from your feed store or other sources.


Some people buy screenings from grain elevators as these screenings are cheaper than bagged feed.


You can also buy from a grain farmer. When buying from a private source, make sure you do your math! Some will advertise per pound but do not include feed bags or bagging fees in the per pound price.


Chickens also love table scraps. You do have to be careful how much salt and sugar may be in table scraps. Just like in humans, too much is not good. They love vegetable and fruit scraps, peels, etc.


Raw potato, citrus fruit and peels, and onions are a few foods not to feed chickens.


Why not get into Chickens?


Once you have decided the type and breed of chicken, you are well on your way to “Going Chicken”! It does take some thinking, time and work to get started.


Chickens are easy to raise and can be very rewarding in many ways!


Make sure you always create your coop and chicken run larger than you really need.


First off it’s healthier for your chickens to have lots of space and secondly, chickens are addicting!


You never know when you will want to add to your flock!


I would love to hear what made you decide to start “Going Chicken”!


About The Egg Lady, Brenda

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Welcome to Going Chicken website. I created this website to help chicken owners to find information on chickens and everything pertaining to chickens… The good, bad and ugly.


I am an Alberta, Canada farm girl, born and bred. I grew up on a small dairy and grain farm. My parents milked 30 to 40 cows, raised meat and laying chickens.

As a child my chores were to pick up eggs, feed and water the chickens, along with many other chores. The chickens would peck my hands or fly out of the nests…not my favorite chore.

As an adult, I married a farmer and now have chickens myself. I find now I enjoy the chore of chickens. picking up eggs, feeding, watering, cleaning the coop. I just enjoy watching the quirky birds.

Chickens are very entertaining creatures. They remind me of a prehistoric creature, scratching and pecking at everything. They are very curious and at times not shy. Watching chickens fight over a worm or blade of grass can keep you engaged for a long time.

I find chickens are peaceful to watch and just be around. Minutes can turn into hours just observing them do their chicken thing!


I deliver eggs to friends and family in nearby towns, that’s how I got named the egg lady.


WHY Chickens?

Whether you have raised chickens for years, just getting into them, or want to start raising chickens, this website is full of information of my experiences.

I have raised meat birds and egg layers and the dual-purpose chicken, a layer/ meat chicken. I have the dual-purpose bird for laying eggs.



Raising chickens isn’t always cheap or easy though it is very rewarding. Through my experiences, I want to give you ideas and or products to help better your flock.

If you ever need a hand or have any questions, feel free to leave them below and I will be more than happy to help you out.

All the best,


The Egg Lady

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